Putting a serious damper on celebrations of Mexico's Dia de la Independencia. Right now, there should be outdoor dances with live music. A little later, political speeches and then fuegos artificiales (fireworks). But the only sound coming through my window other than the occasional car horn or lone firework popping is rain pouring down.
Earlier today, though, the weather was beautiful -- warm and mostly sunny. Off in the distance --40 miles away -- we could see Popo (Popocatepetl) steaming in the distance. (no biggie -- its normal for the rainy season.)
After we dropped Humberto off at work at the furniture store and admired several of Olga's paintings offered for sale there, she drove us to the traditional market. It's a long, warehouse-like structure with an uneven floor and steps here and there, that's been divided into hundreds of tiny shops, many sellng more types of fruits and vegetables than you can imagine. Today, because people were going to be cooking for the holidays, it was jammed.
We threaded our way through, buying onions, tomatoes, string cheese and a crumbly white cheese, three or four kinds of rolls and dried guajillo peppers -- deep red chiles about 7 or 8 inches long and less than half an inch thick.
We also looked at a harness for Margaret/Florida's dog and bought a few items of Dia de la Independencia decor and a couple of lotto games to aid our vocabulary. Florida also found a wallet to buy for a friend. We passed stalls with slaughtered, plucked chickens and baskets of fresh eggs. In a stall nearby, there were boxes of emptied-out eggshells that had been filled with confetti and sealed with a bright piece of tissue paper. If I remember correctly, people will gleefully smash these on friends' heads. Glad I don't have to sweep up afterward!
The market was an amazing blend of old country and new tech -- piles of produce in baskets, with an electronic scale nearby to weigh it and a computer monitor to display the price. Cellphones and DVDs and toys and shoes and clothes were interspersed amid all this, along with ginormous bags of palomitas (popcorn), tortilla chips and other snacks.
Then it was off to the supermercado, where Olga shopped for more food, including a kilo of still-warm corn tortillas -- 8 pesos ($.75), more baked goods and other necessities, while Florida and I checked out whatever caught our eyes. She'd forgotten her hair gel, so we looked at a brand called Muco de Gorila/Gorilla Snott. (you really can't make this stuff up!) She's just snot into anything that whimsical, so she bought something with a much less amusing name.
We got some local beverages to try, including a lime-flavored diet pop. Diet soft drinks are hard to find around here. "Eat, drink and be merry" could well be Mexico's unofficial motto, especially at major holidays.
Hopefully tomorrow won't be a rainout, but even if it is, there's plenty to write about.
!VIVA MEXICO!
Saturday, September 15, 2012
Friday, September 14, 2012
It don't come easy . . .
Got to pay your dues if you wanna sing the blues . . . Or if you want to get online sometimes.
But tonight, my host family's wi-fi is working superbly and I can let all 3 of my fans (you're still there, right?) know what's happening.
Being cheap, I decided to find a different way to get here this time. No $1,400 ticket on American Airlines for me. So I rode Megabus to Chicago ($10.50), took a taxi from Union Station to Midway Airport ($30 with tip) and Volaris ($501 round trip!) from Midway to Mexico City. At the airport, I was met by a guide from the school and we took an Estrella Roja (Red Star) executive bus to Puebla, where Olga, my hostess, awaited.(I'd have taken the bus by myself if I hadn't been arriving at night. That made it worth $85 including bus fares.)
Having taken flights on Vasp in Brasil, and felt like I was in a '50s movie, I didn't know what to expect, though I knew that Volaris is a fairly new airline and that it's affiliated with Southwest Airlines.
It was second only to Singapore Airlines' service, in my fairly limited experience of international flight. No, no hot towels and gourmet meals, but the seats were leather, beverages and snacks were free, the flight was smooth and there was enough legroom to please someone a good bit taller than me.
Getting back to Puebla has been like coming back to see old friends. I had been a bit worried that a second visit would be a disappointment. No way! This time, the experience is even better. Several people at the school have said my Spanish is much better now. I didn't really prep this time, so my only theory is that I'm more relaxed now, more at home.
There are three other students in my class -- all well matched in ability and all friendly. Gabriela, our instructor, is enthusiastic and animated, and keeps the class fun. We've spent this week reviewing various things, including reflexive verbs and direct and indirect objects. I'm pleased at how much I either remembered or understand now. Class is from 9 to 1 with a break about 11. Each day, we write three sentences on our experiences and read them aloud. (I can truthfully say that I get the fewest corrections on my accent and pronunciations. Gracias a Señor McGlothlin, my high school Spanish teacher). We also read aloud our tarea (homework) from the workbook and discuss items of interest.
Then it's off to Pepe Grillo, one of our two "included" restaurants, for lunch. There's a buffet of comidas tipicas (typical foods of the region) that changes daily. Today, we had pollo rollados en salsa de mole -- shredded chicken rolled in a tortilla and baked in the rich, flavorful sauce invented here in Puebla when some nuns had to feed the bishop unexpectedly.
Mole (MOH lay) means milled or ground. The nuns ground several spice and herbs, added chocolate and liquid and cooked meat in it. Voila! A dish fit for VIPs. I hope to visit the ex-convent here, including the kitchen where mole was invented. It was closed for restoration when I was here before.
There also was a soup with tomatoey liquid, bits of green chiles and shrimp about the circumference of a quarter. I decided to skip the soup when I found that the little buggers were still wearing their shells. I had some ziti in tomato sauce and a green salad, too, but skipped the ham and beans. There's no way one can go hungry at Pepe Grillo. Today, a server noticed that one student wasn't eating and brought her some other food instead without even being asked. Another brought coffee because we'd asked for it on Wednesday.
Next time: off to the Zocalo
But tonight, my host family's wi-fi is working superbly and I can let all 3 of my fans (you're still there, right?) know what's happening.
Being cheap, I decided to find a different way to get here this time. No $1,400 ticket on American Airlines for me. So I rode Megabus to Chicago ($10.50), took a taxi from Union Station to Midway Airport ($30 with tip) and Volaris ($501 round trip!) from Midway to Mexico City. At the airport, I was met by a guide from the school and we took an Estrella Roja (Red Star) executive bus to Puebla, where Olga, my hostess, awaited.(I'd have taken the bus by myself if I hadn't been arriving at night. That made it worth $85 including bus fares.)
Having taken flights on Vasp in Brasil, and felt like I was in a '50s movie, I didn't know what to expect, though I knew that Volaris is a fairly new airline and that it's affiliated with Southwest Airlines.
It was second only to Singapore Airlines' service, in my fairly limited experience of international flight. No, no hot towels and gourmet meals, but the seats were leather, beverages and snacks were free, the flight was smooth and there was enough legroom to please someone a good bit taller than me.
Getting back to Puebla has been like coming back to see old friends. I had been a bit worried that a second visit would be a disappointment. No way! This time, the experience is even better. Several people at the school have said my Spanish is much better now. I didn't really prep this time, so my only theory is that I'm more relaxed now, more at home.
There are three other students in my class -- all well matched in ability and all friendly. Gabriela, our instructor, is enthusiastic and animated, and keeps the class fun. We've spent this week reviewing various things, including reflexive verbs and direct and indirect objects. I'm pleased at how much I either remembered or understand now. Class is from 9 to 1 with a break about 11. Each day, we write three sentences on our experiences and read them aloud. (I can truthfully say that I get the fewest corrections on my accent and pronunciations. Gracias a Señor McGlothlin, my high school Spanish teacher). We also read aloud our tarea (homework) from the workbook and discuss items of interest.
Then it's off to Pepe Grillo, one of our two "included" restaurants, for lunch. There's a buffet of comidas tipicas (typical foods of the region) that changes daily. Today, we had pollo rollados en salsa de mole -- shredded chicken rolled in a tortilla and baked in the rich, flavorful sauce invented here in Puebla when some nuns had to feed the bishop unexpectedly.
Mole (MOH lay) means milled or ground. The nuns ground several spice and herbs, added chocolate and liquid and cooked meat in it. Voila! A dish fit for VIPs. I hope to visit the ex-convent here, including the kitchen where mole was invented. It was closed for restoration when I was here before.
There also was a soup with tomatoey liquid, bits of green chiles and shrimp about the circumference of a quarter. I decided to skip the soup when I found that the little buggers were still wearing their shells. I had some ziti in tomato sauce and a green salad, too, but skipped the ham and beans. There's no way one can go hungry at Pepe Grillo. Today, a server noticed that one student wasn't eating and brought her some other food instead without even being asked. Another brought coffee because we'd asked for it on Wednesday.
Next time: off to the Zocalo
Saturday, August 11, 2012
Packing for Puebla
Puebla's climate is not what you probably envision when you think of Mexico. Recently, days have been in the 70s, nights in the 50s -- quite a bit cooler than Indiana lately! The record August high for Puebla is 32C (89.6F) .While Puebla is much closer to the equator than Indiana is, it's also at 2200 meters (7,217 feet). The surrounding area is mountainous, with recently-smoking volcano Popocatépetl ("Popo" to the locals) 40km away.
Two years ago, I went a little later in the year and encountered a few nights in the 40s -- pretty chilly when there's no central heat! On the bus in the morning, the mamacitas would be escorting their niños to la escuela. Each chico or chica would have on a heavy chaqueta (jacket) and often a knitted scarf and gloves. Meanwhile, I'd be wearing a medium-heavy wool sweater with a light trench coat over it. Mexican people are very polite, but I know a few looked at la pobre turista and thought she must be muy frio like them.
I'll be taking the same sweater again, and possibly the trench coat, though more likely just a nylon windbreaker. For the flight itself, i'll wear the sweater (I FREEZE on planes!) with slacks and a blouse. I'll be wearing wool socks so I don't have to go barefoot in the airport when i take off my mock Crocs. Since I always get wanded and patted down because of my knee replacement, I'll make sure nothing I'm wearing has metal fasteners. It makes life easier for TSA and for me. (As much as some of the TSA people annoy me, I always make a point of thanking them. Their work is almost the dictionary definition of "thankless job," and I'm sure their pay stinks, too.)
My wardrobe will be black, white, gray and turquoise; all the tops will go with any of the slacks. Rolled up in my small wheeled carry-on will be two pairs of slacks, four long-sleeved blouses, three short-sleeved t-shirts, a lightweight pullover sweater, a few scarves, undies and at least 4 pairs of socks I've knitted. When I went before, I had only two pairs, so I had to wash one out each night, and the clean pair wasn't always quite dry by morning. Very refreshing.
Sharing the space will be travel-size shampoo, etc.,; a microfiber washcloth; and fewer first-aid and over-the-counter remedies than last time. I'll also have regalos: Multicolored and white LED Christmas lights for Olga and Humberto's patio, an extra skein or two of sock yarn and inexpensive needles in case I meet some local knitters, and some Endangered Species chocolate bars (an Indianapolis product). For the school director there'll be a bottle of Cholula hot sauce. It's made in Cholula, the smaller city adjacent to Puebla, but you can't buy it there. Bottled sauce? Practically sacrilege in the city where mole (MOH-lay) was invented, Carefully padded by clothing will be a fold-up, battery-powered Ott Lite LED lamp for the desk in my room. No more sitting on the bed and juggling a notebook, a text and a dictionary! (Speaking of which, I won't have to take my texts with me -- loaners will be provided; if there have been changes in the books used, copies will be mailed to me when I get back.) I'll also take a night light for the bathroom.
The stuffed carry-on will be placed inside its "big sister" wheeled suitcase for the southbound trip. I'll stick a couple of pairs of shoes in there, along with my jacket, rechargeable batteries and an extra book or two. On the way home, I'm sure both cases will be used. If I didn't want to take gifts there and bring some gifts home, I know I could take everything I need in a carry-on. That's very liberating.
For the flight, I'll carry on my ancient, homemade denim backpack, stuffed with a change of clothes, my iPad, charger cord, battery charger, bag of prescriptions, a couple of magazines and, of course, a sock in progress. I may also get one of those tee-tiny umbrellas. Drinks and snacks are included in the ticket price, but dinner is not: In Mexico, it usually isn't eaten until late evening. So this gringa vieja will be taking a sandwich or whatever along, because mi estomago won't be on Mexican time yet. My purse will have the usual (minus keys), plus the little photo album and a small dictionary.
Something else that won't be going: A skirt. Last time, I wore it only for the closing dinner. There's no good reason to take something that far if you'll only wear it once! Ditto for any shoes dressier than my plain black sandals.
Two years ago, I went a little later in the year and encountered a few nights in the 40s -- pretty chilly when there's no central heat! On the bus in the morning, the mamacitas would be escorting their niños to la escuela. Each chico or chica would have on a heavy chaqueta (jacket) and often a knitted scarf and gloves. Meanwhile, I'd be wearing a medium-heavy wool sweater with a light trench coat over it. Mexican people are very polite, but I know a few looked at la pobre turista and thought she must be muy frio like them.
I'll be taking the same sweater again, and possibly the trench coat, though more likely just a nylon windbreaker. For the flight itself, i'll wear the sweater (I FREEZE on planes!) with slacks and a blouse. I'll be wearing wool socks so I don't have to go barefoot in the airport when i take off my mock Crocs. Since I always get wanded and patted down because of my knee replacement, I'll make sure nothing I'm wearing has metal fasteners. It makes life easier for TSA and for me. (As much as some of the TSA people annoy me, I always make a point of thanking them. Their work is almost the dictionary definition of "thankless job," and I'm sure their pay stinks, too.)
My wardrobe will be black, white, gray and turquoise; all the tops will go with any of the slacks. Rolled up in my small wheeled carry-on will be two pairs of slacks, four long-sleeved blouses, three short-sleeved t-shirts, a lightweight pullover sweater, a few scarves, undies and at least 4 pairs of socks I've knitted. When I went before, I had only two pairs, so I had to wash one out each night, and the clean pair wasn't always quite dry by morning. Very refreshing.
Sharing the space will be travel-size shampoo, etc.,; a microfiber washcloth; and fewer first-aid and over-the-counter remedies than last time. I'll also have regalos: Multicolored and white LED Christmas lights for Olga and Humberto's patio, an extra skein or two of sock yarn and inexpensive needles in case I meet some local knitters, and some Endangered Species chocolate bars (an Indianapolis product). For the school director there'll be a bottle of Cholula hot sauce. It's made in Cholula, the smaller city adjacent to Puebla, but you can't buy it there. Bottled sauce? Practically sacrilege in the city where mole (MOH-lay) was invented, Carefully padded by clothing will be a fold-up, battery-powered Ott Lite LED lamp for the desk in my room. No more sitting on the bed and juggling a notebook, a text and a dictionary! (Speaking of which, I won't have to take my texts with me -- loaners will be provided; if there have been changes in the books used, copies will be mailed to me when I get back.) I'll also take a night light for the bathroom.
The stuffed carry-on will be placed inside its "big sister" wheeled suitcase for the southbound trip. I'll stick a couple of pairs of shoes in there, along with my jacket, rechargeable batteries and an extra book or two. On the way home, I'm sure both cases will be used. If I didn't want to take gifts there and bring some gifts home, I know I could take everything I need in a carry-on. That's very liberating.
For the flight, I'll carry on my ancient, homemade denim backpack, stuffed with a change of clothes, my iPad, charger cord, battery charger, bag of prescriptions, a couple of magazines and, of course, a sock in progress. I may also get one of those tee-tiny umbrellas. Drinks and snacks are included in the ticket price, but dinner is not: In Mexico, it usually isn't eaten until late evening. So this gringa vieja will be taking a sandwich or whatever along, because mi estomago won't be on Mexican time yet. My purse will have the usual (minus keys), plus the little photo album and a small dictionary.
Something else that won't be going: A skirt. Last time, I wore it only for the closing dinner. There's no good reason to take something that far if you'll only wear it once! Ditto for any shoes dressier than my plain black sandals.
Thursday, August 9, 2012
I'm ba-a-a-a-ck! Or, rather, I'm going back soon. Back to Puebla, back to living in my second language for a few weeks.
Two years ago, I tested into Level 3, which was challenging intellectually (pluperfect subjunctive, anyone?), but not really what I needed for comfortable conversation. So this time, I'm insisting on taking Level 2 -- simple past and future.
I'll have my same host family, the wonderful Olga and Humberto, whose extended family and friends also were so welcoming.
Margaret, a fellow student from two years ago, also will be there. Margaret (known in Mexico as Florida (pronounced flow-REE-dha) is from Vancouver, WA., and we've kept in touch since our Puebla days. When I went to Sock Summit in Portland, OR, last summer, she took me out for a wonderfully authentic meal at a "real" Mexican (not Tex-Mex) restaurant. We had a spice-rubbed pork loin that was outstanding!
I decided to start my immersion experience a little earlier this time: Instead of flying to Mexico City on American Airlines, I'll be using Volaris, a Mexican line. For just over $500, it will take me from Chicago Midway Airport nonstop to Benito Juarez Airport in Ciudad de Mexico, Distrito Federal. It's about a 5-hour flight. The announcements and such will be bilingual (at least!), but Spanish first, and I probably will be in the minority among passengers. As I did last time, I'll be taking a small album of photos, postcards and maps that show where I'm from, where I'm going and a bit about my life. It's a great ice-breaker.
After I clear customs and immigration, I'll be met by a college student guia from the Spanish Institute, and we'll take an Estrella Roja "executive" bus (comfortable, air-conditioned, similar to Megabus) to Puebla, which is about 75 miles southeast of Mexico City. There, I'll be met by mi familia Mexicana, and we'll probably stay up way too late catching up on what's happened since '10.
The following day, we'll probably just hang around, talking, cooking, eating -- or maybe see some of the extended family. I can't wait to see Ximena (hee-MAY-na) and Carolina (cah-ro-LEE-nah), who are cousins and both about 5, and Ximena's hermanito, Jose Emilio. He was only 3 months old the last time I saw him. Who knows? Carolina may have a baby brother or sister by now.
Next time: Packing for Puebla
Two years ago, I tested into Level 3, which was challenging intellectually (pluperfect subjunctive, anyone?), but not really what I needed for comfortable conversation. So this time, I'm insisting on taking Level 2 -- simple past and future.
I'll have my same host family, the wonderful Olga and Humberto, whose extended family and friends also were so welcoming.
Margaret, a fellow student from two years ago, also will be there. Margaret (known in Mexico as Florida (pronounced flow-REE-dha) is from Vancouver, WA., and we've kept in touch since our Puebla days. When I went to Sock Summit in Portland, OR, last summer, she took me out for a wonderfully authentic meal at a "real" Mexican (not Tex-Mex) restaurant. We had a spice-rubbed pork loin that was outstanding!
I decided to start my immersion experience a little earlier this time: Instead of flying to Mexico City on American Airlines, I'll be using Volaris, a Mexican line. For just over $500, it will take me from Chicago Midway Airport nonstop to Benito Juarez Airport in Ciudad de Mexico, Distrito Federal. It's about a 5-hour flight. The announcements and such will be bilingual (at least!), but Spanish first, and I probably will be in the minority among passengers. As I did last time, I'll be taking a small album of photos, postcards and maps that show where I'm from, where I'm going and a bit about my life. It's a great ice-breaker.
After I clear customs and immigration, I'll be met by a college student guia from the Spanish Institute, and we'll take an Estrella Roja "executive" bus (comfortable, air-conditioned, similar to Megabus) to Puebla, which is about 75 miles southeast of Mexico City. There, I'll be met by mi familia Mexicana, and we'll probably stay up way too late catching up on what's happened since '10.
The following day, we'll probably just hang around, talking, cooking, eating -- or maybe see some of the extended family. I can't wait to see Ximena (hee-MAY-na) and Carolina (cah-ro-LEE-nah), who are cousins and both about 5, and Ximena's hermanito, Jose Emilio. He was only 3 months old the last time I saw him. Who knows? Carolina may have a baby brother or sister by now.
Next time: Packing for Puebla
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